30. November -0001 Travel Guide critics

LONELY PLANET - Croatia, Jeanne Oliver, edition 2005

For a change from the ancient and the artsy, try the excellent WAR PHOTOS LIMITED managed by former photojournalist Wade Goddard. The award-winning photos on display here concentrate on the subtleties of human violence rather that on its carnage. The permanent exhibition focuses on the Balkan wars but temporary exhibits will include other wars.

THE BRADT TRAVEL GUIDE - Croatia and Dubrovnik, Piers Letcher, edition 2005

Continue down Prijeko for most of its length - or if it's already approaching lunchtime consider avoiding the touts by walking along the old city's uppermost street, Peline, which gives great views down the steep-stepped streets crossing Prijeko - and then turn left down Antuninska, where you'll find the extraordinary Dubrovnik War Photo gallery.

It's one of the city's newest and most moving galleries, and I can't recommend a visit too highly. Specializing in first-rate temporary exhibitions by the world's greatest modern-war photographers, the gallery aims, as the New Zealand-born director Wade Goddard says, “to strip away the Hollywood image of war, to replace the glamour, the heroic bravura, the “only the bad guys suffer“ image of war, with the raw and undeniable evidence that war inflicts injustices on all who experience it.'

It would require a heart of stone to come away unmoved by the extraordinary (and often painful) images. When I visited in the summer of 2004, Ron Haviv's breathtaking “Blood and Honey“ collection was on show - “bal“ being Turkish for “honey“ and “kan“ being Turkish for “blood“. Haviv won the World Press Photo award for his iconic pictures of the fall of Vukovar in 1991, and is one of the cofounders of agency VII (see